Sep 30th, 2010 Archives

Rosehip seed oil has become widely recognized as an effective skin and beauty care agent in the last decade, with great interest surrounding its scientifically-validated beauty-enhancing effects. The oil has been heralded as a miracle cure for skin, useful for a great myriad of conditions, from premature aging and sun damage to scarring and other damage. What is this wonderful red liquid, where does it come from, how does it work, and most importantly, can it work for you?

Rosehip seed oil is made from the seeds of the fruit of wild thorny rose bushes native to mountainous regions of South America. Also known as “Rosa Mosqueta”, the oil has been used by native people for hundreds of years.

The oil is produced via solvent extraction or pressing of the seed. The cold-pressed oil is the closest to nature and likely the healthiest variety – it has a high essential fatty acid content, and is considered more delicate than other common seed and nut oils. Because of it’s unique chemical nature, it should be refrigerated, or at least kept in a dark, cool place, and used within one year of purchase.

The “active ingredients” of rosehip are now available in a highly concentrated form, called a “carbon dioxide extract”. Very similar to an essential oil, but made at a cooler temperature, this very deep red, viscous oil is used in small quantities — and not as the base of your formulas as cold-pressed rosehip seed oil would be.

Rosehip seed oil is an excellent source of natural vitamin E and natural vitamin A, or ‘trans-retinoic acid’. Retinoic acid, the acid derivative of vitamin A, is the active ingredient found in Retin-A or Tretinoin. Retin-A (a pharmaceutical preparation) has been heralded as a wrinkle cure because of its ability to increase skin cell proliferation – or speed the time it takes for your skin to regenerate. In fact, the oil has been extensively studied for many of the same actions attributed to Retin-A, and has been shown effective without side effects (like over-drying and peeling – though unlike Retin-A, it should not be used to treat acne).

The first major study on the oil included individuals with diverse forms of skin damage: deep wrinkles and other premature aging, sun damage, radiation damage, acne scarring, burn scarring, dermatitis, and more. The oil had significant, noticeable effects in regenerating the skin, reducing wrinkles and scars, and helping the skin to regain its natural color and tone. In all ways, the oil returned skin to it’s original, natural healthy state for many of the study’s participants.

A second major study was done with middle-aged women with noticeable premature skin aging. Again, Rosehip seed produced noticeable, significant effects in smoothing the skin, leading to a younger texture and appearance.

Besides its regenerative properties, rosehip seed oil is also an excellent moisturizer. This is most likely due to its high essential fatty acid content (fatty acids that the body cannot produce itself), which are necessary for healthy skin. The oil penetrates the upper layers of the skin quickly and, being known as a ‘dry’ moisturizer, does not leave the skin feeling greasy or oily.

Rosehip seed oil may be used directly on the skin daily – It may also be blended with other oils like jojoba and sweet almond, and will still give noticeable results at one-tenth of the concentration. In addition, rosehip seed oil makes an excellent carrier oil for aromatherapy, blending it with essential oils having skin regenerative properties will make an exceptional natural skin care product.

For improvement of scarring, a simple blend of 20 drops of Helichrysum Italicum per 1 ounce of rosehip seed oil, applied daily to the area, can be helpful. Helichrysum is known for its content of regenerative ‘ketones’. For a more luxurious beauty blend, try the following in 4 ounces of rosehip seed: 5 drops Helichrysum 5 drops Lavender 3 drops Sandalwood 3 drops Neroli 3 drops Carrot Seed 3 drops Geranium 2 drops Roman Chamomile 2 drops Jasmine 1 drop Palmarosa 1 drop Ylang Ylang. Even simply the Helichrysum and Lavender will go a long way – Lavender oil is very gentle, and is also known to have regenerative properties. If you’re using the CO2 extract/essential oil, use anywhere from 7 to 28 drops per ounce of your final formula — and you can use the rosehip carrier and CO2 at the same time if you wish. Perhaps even blend with tamanu for extra healing potency.

A little Rosehip seed oil will go a long way – and once you use it, you may forever include this wonderful natural botanical in your skin care collection. It is truly a beauty-care miracle from mother nature.

The author is a consultant for Ananda Aromatherapy, found at www.anandaapothecary.com. Find more resources are available on aromatherapy and essential oil blends through the website.

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